November 2009: Part II (Read Part I First!)

The Bug Hut: More like a bug fortress! While I was home on vacation, I went on a shopping spree at REI and bought what may easily the best purchase ever: a bug hut. It’s essentially a one-person tent made of mosquito netting that is easily assembled and disassembled. I have taken to sleeping in it every night and once I climb inside it, I feel invincible. Well, I guess it only makes me feel invincible toward creepy-crawlies, but those of you who know me well or have followed this blog know that being invincible to creepy-crawlies is HUGE in my world.

Recently, I have been experiencing some newfound paranoia despite feeling like I’m in a little cocoon when sleeping in my bug hut. I equate this paranoia with the malaria prophylaxis I have been taking since arriving in Niger – a drug that has caused hallucinations, nightmares, and insomnia among other things for me.

My village is full of bats, and normally I am fascinated by them. But, for some reason, the bats have been very vocal lately. I am used to them screeching and screaming once in a while, but lately they have been uproarious throughout the night. I don’t know why they make these noises – whether it’s out of anger, for hunting purposes, or to attract a mate. I’ve tried inquiring of my villagers as to why the bats have been so vocal and I typically get one of two responses: (1) “I go ga ma kani! (They’re feeling happy!); or (2) Ay si bay wala. (I don’t know.) Neither of these responses help me any and I am left feeling as though one of these fine nights, the bats are going to come after me and my bug hut (absurd paranoia #1).

My neighbors across the road from me have a couple of good-sized cats that like to come into my yard to hunt. Cats, along with most animals in Niger, are not typically very friendly and are extremely frightened of people. Sometimes I hear the cats fighting at night and it sounds as though it gets pretty nasty. Because another Peace Corps volunteer was attacked by what we can only assume was a rabid cat while sleeping in her mosquito net inside her house, I am now paranoid that the cats are going to rise against me and attack me and my bug hut (absurd paranoia #2). Just the other night, I was laying in my bug hut, chatting with my parents on the phone, explaining to them how I have been rather paranoid recently. I told them about the cats and later the night I was awoken out of a deep sleep by a strange rustling/scratching sound. I wake up to see a cat with its front paws up on my bed, checking me out. It freaked me out and I wasn’t able to fully fall asleep for the rest of the night.

My daytime, not paranoid self realizes that the cat was not being at all aggressive and that he was merely checking things out and exploring and I have to reaffirm these things to myself every night. I told my best friend in my village about being scared of the cats and to ease my mind, she told me that it wasn’t a cat that had attacked the other volunteer, it was a person. She explained to me that there are people who become like animals at night – some become cats, others become dogs or donkeys or any number of other animals. She said a cat would never attack a sleeping person inside their house without provocation. It had to have been a person. She also explained that when Nigeriens are ill, they hope that a cat will come and be by their side because if it does they are sure to get better. But, if no cat arrives at the side of a sick person, they are likely to die from their illness. Oddly, this did ease my mind and I realized that the reason the cat felt comfortable enough to come explore my bug hut was because it knew that I was not an aggressive person and wouldn’t hurt it. That night I was actually able to get a decent night’s sleep.

Tobay Tobay – A Demented Halloween: August 22nd through September 19th marked the month of Ramadan, an Islamic month of fasting. During this time, all healthy adults fast from sunrise to sundown – no water or food from about 5am until 7pm. As you can imagine, fasting of this nature over a full month can really wear a person out and it is a time when most people are tired, lethargic, hungry, thirsty, and not at all surprisingly, grumpy.

Children aren’t required to fast and thus are able to eat and drink as they usually would, but this doesn’t shelter them from experiencing the effects of a month of intense fasting. The kids still have to help out around the house and do as they are told by their parents – parents who are tired, lethargic, hungry, thirsty, and grumpy. Even though the children aren’t going hungry or thirsty, they are still facing the wrath of their fasting parents, which makes the month of Ramadan a pretty dreary time for kids.

However, there is a silver lining for the kids and it comes in the form of “Tobay Tobay.” Tobay Tobay (which translates to rabbit rabbit) is about a week to two week long event in which kids roam around the village after dark in groups of about ten, banging on drums, singing obnoxious songs, dressing as though they’re involved in gorilla warfare, and visiting all the houses in their neighborhood looking for gifts of sugar cubes, money, or candy.

Somehow I missed out on Tobay Tobay last year, but this year I got the full experience. And let me tell you, it is truly something to behold. Children running amuck with their faces painted white, their arms, backs, and chests painted in white polka dots, flip-flops strapped to their heads as ears, and tree branches tied around their waists in a sort of grass skirt. Each child has a drum that they beat on incessantly and the song they sing at the top of their lungs is almost too catchy. Needless to say, I got sucked in a time or two and the kids scored some American candy. But, despite the obnoxious nature of Tobay Tobay, I got some amazing photos and video of the madness and most importantly, I laughed so hard on multiple occasions that my stomach ached the next day.

See for yourself:

The Place I Call Home: The UN recently released its annual Human Development Index in which it ranks 182 countries from the best to worst places to live. Countries are ranked on the following criteria: life expectancy, gross domestic product (GDP), literacy, and school enrollment (among others). Norway came in at number one, while Niger, my current home, came in dead last.

While I often struggle with living here and I recognize the challenges that Niger faces, it is still hard to see that this country has such a poor rating. I don't deny that it is probably very accurate, but I fear that being ranked in such a way causes people to view Niger as a "lost cause" and to assume that Nigeriens lack quality of life. Yes, Niger does not have all of the resources and opportunities available to the developed world, but the people here are amazing and they live their lives to the fullest, rarely dwelling on the difficulties they face.

If you're interested in reading more about Niger and it's ranking by the UN, check out this website: http://hdrstats.undp.org/en/countries/country_fact_sheets/cty_fs_NER.html.

Shout Outs: This month’s shout out is going to all of the people who have donated to my project. My counterparts and I are so grateful for your support and could not do this without your help. Thank you so very much!!!