September 2008

No Concept of Time: Nigeriens do not have a concept of time, or rather, they have a very different concept of time than in the U.S. There are essentially three times of day in Niger: morning, afternoon, and night. The majority of Nigeriens do not have clocks, watches, cellphones, or any other device that tells time, so life in Niger does not follow a concrete schedule of time.

One of the most common frustrations among Peace Corps Volunteers (PCVs) in Niger arises from this difference in concepts of time. In the U.S., we are taught from a very young age that school, work, etc. starts at a specific time and ends at a specific time. We are taught to always be on time and that being late will incur consequences. If you are habitually late to work, you’ll find yourself out of a job. If you show up late to a meeting, the meeting will either happen without you or will not happen at all. In Niger, if a meeting is scheduled for 8:00am, it is commonplace for Nigeriens to show up anywhere from 30 minutes to 5 hours late. This is the result of many things: perhaps they ran into a fellow villager that is going through a tough time and needs to talk, perhaps they had a wedding or baby-naming ceremony to attend, maybe the night before brought the first rains of the season and they had to go work in the fields in order to get the growing season started. Whatever the reason may be, it is acceptable to be late in Niger – Nigeriens and Americans alike will be excused for tardiness.

In order to get things accomplished as a PCV, it is important to be aware of this cultural difference and learn to roll with the punches. Nothing will ever happen in a timely fashion here and there will always be surprises along the way. I can’t say with any real authority that this won’t be a source of frustration for me even though I know that it is bound to happen. All I can do is bring a book – if someone is late for a meeting, at least I won’t just be sitting there twiddling my thumbs.

Toilets – I miss them! Oh the convenience of a flushable toilet. Being able to hop out of bed in a sleepy stupor, sit down to relieve yourself, then flush it all away, and return to a blissful dreamland is a luxury I truly miss. I now understand why the toilet is referred to as a “Porcelain God.” Ain’t that just the truth? Even as I sit here writing this blog entry, I have visions of this bright, shiny, glistening white toilet surrounded by a halo of bright light, twinkling and beckoning to me. The things you miss when you no longer have access to all of the comforts of American living. Another lesson in not taking what we have in the U.S. for granted. Now go tell your toilets that you’re sorry for taking them for granted and that you promise to do better…

Majestic Beauties – Giraffes: It was just after sunset and I was riding the bus from the capitol to my village. I was dosing in and out when suddenly I heard a bit of commotion on an otherwise quiet bus ride. I open my eyes, glance out the window, and behold a small herd of giraffes. They were grazing very close to the road and looked so amazing. I have seen giraffes at the zoo and at Marine World, but there’s something to be said for seeing an animal like the giraffe in its natural setting – wild and free. I was awestruck and had another one of those “I live in Africa” moments.

I was talking to a current volunteer about having seen the giraffes on the way to my village and she told me that she had seen them about three times during her service. She added that each time she saw the giraffes it was the start of a really amazing period of time for her in Niger. So, if the same is true for me, I am starting the next phase of this crazy adventure with awesome giraffe energy!

10 Reasons Why MW Is My Favorite:

She shares her food with me.
She’s from the Bay!
She reminds me of my girlfriends from home.
She lets me vent.
She draws me emo stick figures when I’m feeling down.
She’s wicked smart, funny, and kind.
She goes on photo safaris with me.
She understands the parachute game.
She lets me be me.
She makes me laugh.

8 Signs You’re Not in Kansas Anymore:

You know you’re in Niger when receiving Duct Tape is a treat.
You know you’re in Niger when seeing breasts is commonplace.
You know you’re in Niger when 90 degrees is a cold day.
You know you’re in Niger when you forget what knees look like.
You know you’re in Niger when getting somewhere by camelback is normal.
You know you’re in Niger when you see a cell tower in the middle of a village of straw huts.
You know you’re in Niger when a really awful Brazilian soap opera dubbed in French is the highlight of your evening TV watching.
You know you’re in Niger when the food pyramid drops from 7 food groups to 3 (grains, proteins, and fats).

Words of Wisdom, Part III: I sit here writing, struggling with some homesickness, reflecting after a fellow trainee has made the decision to go home to the U.S. and as I sit here, the song that starts to play on my friend’s iTunes is, "Don’t Worry Baby" by The Beach Boys. It’s funny how things seem to happen at just the right moment, especially here. So, as I find it quite fitting, my words of wisdom for this entry are some of the lyrics from the song :

"Well, it’s been building up inside of me for oh I don’t know how long. I don’t know why, but I keep thinking something’s bound to go wrong. But she looks in my eyes and makes me realize when she says, ‘Don’t worry baby. Don’t worry baby, everything will turn out alright. Don’t worry baby." –The Beach Boys

Making a Human Connection – My Challenge to Those at Home: In Nigerien culture, greeting others is very important. When Nigeriens pass each other on the road, they say hello, ask each other about their health, how their day is going, about their families, etc. When Nigeriens approach a vendor at the market or on the side of the road, before asking for a given item, they greet the vendor and ask about their health, family, and so on. For example, when I return home after a day at Tondo Bon, I greet my host mother with the following : "Fofo ay na. Mate ga ham? Mate ni go?" (Hi Mom. How is your body? How is your day?). I ask similar questions when I buy breakfast in the morning, when I’m interested in buying something at the market, or when I pass another Nigerien on the road. Nigeriens have an amazing sense of community and understand the value of making human connections.

This is an element of American culture that is severely lacking. Americans, generally speaking, have a very rigid "every man for himself" mindset. We need our space and protect that space at all costs. We are weary of those we pass on the street and avoid eye contact with others whenever possible. We look at others in need and think one or both of the following thoughts: they must have really messed up in order to be in such a dire situation or I’m sure someone else is doing something to help them, so I don’t need to worry about it. We don’t make connections with other human beings, we don’t ask those around us about their health, family, or work. If we speak with strangers, it’s usually all business. There is very little concept of community in the states.

I would like to challenge those at home to reach out to other human beings and take time to greet the people that you see. When you’re ordering your morning cup of coffee, take the time to say hello to the person behind the counter, ask them how they are doing, engage them in conversation. When you sit down at a restaurant, before making your demands, take a moment to talk a little with your server. When you’re checking out at the market, talk with the cashier/bagger. It may seem like a small, insignificant task to some of you and to others it may be a question of really having to leave your confort zone, but I guarantee you that you will make an impact on others. Perhaps the person you approach is having an awful day and your interest in chatting with them, however briefly, may be the thing that turns their whole day around. I can also guarantee that should you choose to accept this challenge, you will be a much richer and happier person. Making connections with other human beings is healing and it will lend itself to a greater sense of community.

I envision this challenge to be a kind of ‘pay it forward’ operation. As you make an effort to reach out to others, take the opportunity to teach them about what you’re doing. Tell them about where I am living, what the people here do, and about the challenge I have set forth. Encourage others to try it and to teach others about it. Maybe, just maybe, in the two years that I am gone, this challenge will have gone full circle in our tiny Bay Area community and I will hear about it from a complete stranger when I return.